Below are some of the most commonly asked questions received by our customer
service representatives:
-
Check your circuit breaker and reset if necessary.
-
Check your G.F.C.I. (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) and reset if necessary.
-
If your pool light is tied into a remote system, test your batteries. Are the
remote frequencies set properly?
Back to Top
Your swimming pool will experience normal water loss through the process of
evaporation. The rate of evaporation varies throughout the USA, however if you
suspect a greater than normal loss:
-
Closely inspect the swimming pool interior shell for cracks and defects. If you
identify a structural problem with your swimming pool, we recommend that you
request an appointment with one of our skilled service technicians.
-
Check the p-trap for any water leakage. If water is leaking out
of p-trap, the "O" rings inside the backwash valve will need to be replaced.
Back to Top
Each swimming pool system has different water pressure tolerances. Please refer
to your original owner's equipment manual and/or startup instructions to
identify the range of proper pressure for your swimming pool.
-
If you suspect that the pressure is too high, check and clean out all debris
from baskets. In addition, check to see that all your equipment valves are set
properly and backwash your filter for several minutes.
-
If you suspect the pressure is too high, confirm that the pressure gauge
reads zero when the equipment is off. If it does not fall back down to zero,
you will need to replace the gauge.
-
If you suspect the pressure is too low, check and clean out all debris
from baskets. In addition, check to see that all your equipment valves are set
properly.
-
If you suspect that the pressure is too low, check to see if the gauge reads
zero when the equipment is off. If it does not fall back down to zero, you will
need to replace the gauge.
Back to Top
The standard push/pull backwash valve is a plunger type of valve commonly found
in sand and DE filter systems. Inside the valve is a plunger with two o-rings.
When the valve is put into the backwash position, the flow of water through the
filter is reversed. After putting the valve into the backwash position, the
water is pumped out through the backwash rather then being returned to the
swimming pool. Typically, a hose is attached to the valve so the operator can
direct the water flow away from the swimming pool.
Normally, there are four "O" rings in this type of valve. If these rings become
damaged, worn or dried out, two things will occur. Unfiltered water may return
to the swimming pool and/or the swimming pool will begin to lose water.
-
Cap "O" Ring (1) seals the removable cap to the valve body. This "O" ring
requires light lubrication and should be cleaned and lubricated each time the
cap is removed.
-
Shaft "O" Ring (1) is inside the cap and provides a seal where the plunger
shaft goes through the cap. This "O" ring requires light lubrication. Apply a
small amount of lubricant to the shaft immediately above and below the cap and
then work the shaft up and down. This should be done once per month or when the
shaft becomes difficult to move.
-
Piston "O" Rings (2) are on the pistons or discs of the plunger. These rings
require heavier lubrication. TURN OFF YOUR FILTER PUMP. Remove the cap and pull
the plunger all the way out. Check the two "O" rings to make sure they are not
damaged. They should fit snugly on the pistons with no kinks or twists. Apply a
pencil-sized bead of lubricant around each "O" ring and insert back into the
plunger. Re-install the cap. This should be done once per month (or as
necessary) when the shaft becomes difficult to move.
Back to Top
Most manufacturers recommend that the following procedure be done on an annual
basis. Disassemble the filter, clean with garden hose, inspect the grids for
tear and holes and re-coat new D.E.
This type of filter utilizes D.E. powder to strain debris from the water (as
recommended by the manufacturer). D.E. is the fossilized remains of plankton
(diatoms) that have been ground into a fine powder. The cloth-covered grids
within the filter must be pre-coated with D.E. powder for the proper filter
operation.
-
Pre-coat the filter grids by mixing a combination of D.E. and water. The slurry
solution should have the consistency of watered down pancake batter. Slowly
pour this slurry into the skimmer while the pump is running. Once the grids are
coated, the debris will be removed from the swimming pool water. The water
flows through the grids and flows out the end opening into the manifold and
returned to the swimming pool.
-
Backwashing a D.E. filter is similar to the procedure for the sand filter. By
reversing the flow of water, the debris and dirty D.E. are loosened from the
grid. This water is washed out of the filter and into the backwash line. After
this is completed, the D.E. re-coating of the grids can proceed.
D.E. powder is non-biodegradable and a separation tank may be installed on your
backwash line to capture all of the flushed powder particles.
Back to Top
- Check your main electric panel and the Quik Command panel and make sure that the light breaker has not been tripped for some reason.
- Check your G.F.C.I. outlet. This is normally located at the swimming pool equipment and looks like a regular outlet but has two buttons on it. One button says "test" and the other button says "reset." Push the "test" button and then "reset" button. If this was actually tripped it would have been protruding out and you would need to press in.
- If you have a remote system with fiber optic lighting, then please check the batteries in the hand held cordless remote.
- If you have a remote system with a regular incandescent light, please make sure that your hand held remote is plugged in and the frequency tab matches the tabs that are on the module at the equipment (refer to instructions provided with remote system).
- If the light still does not come on, please contact us for service.
Back to Top
- If you have an ozone system, this is normal and you should not be alarmed. If the air seems excessive where the pump is cavitating, you may need to adjust the valve for the ozone.
- Check the water level of the swimming pool and make sure it is in the middle of the skimmer. If the water level gets to low, it could allow the skimmer to suck in air.
- Make sure the weir door on the skimmer is free moving and not stuck. If stuck in the up position, it will not allow enough water to pass into the skimmer and cause air to get into the system.
- Check the pump "O"ring and make sure it is properly lubed and seating correctly.
- If the problem persists, please contact us for service.
Back to Top
- Remove the pump lid. Check the "O" ring for wear or damage and replace if needed. Wipe the pump lid housing; pump lid and "O" ring clean of any debris. Apply a small amount of lubricant to the "O" ring and re-install the pump lid (hand tighten only).
Back to Top
- Your swimming pool and/or spa is equipped with "split suction" safety main drains. On a split suction system, if one drain becomes blocked, the other draws water (takes over the suction function) thus preventing entrapment on a main drain. Because each suction opening draws water from 360 degrees, you will not feel significant suction from either drain but it will take in all the necessary debris. In a spa, you will typically see one main drain in the floor and one in the side of the bench foot well.
- If the problem persists, please contact us for service.
Back to Top
- Make sure the water supply is turned on. Normally there is a vacuum breaker installed on one of your hose bibs.
- You may need to adjust the water leveler. To make adjustments, turn the upper float module either clockwise or counterclockwise and lift the module or push the module down to achieve the desired water level. Once the desired level is achieved, turn the float module either clockwise or counterclockwise until it locks back in place.
- If the problem persists, please contact us for service.
Back to Top
- Make sure all the baskets are cleaned out. If there is too much debris in the baskets it could restrict the water flow and cause the pump to cavitate and thus make noise.
- Make sure that your pump "O" ring has been lubed. If not this could allow air into the system and cause the pump to make noise.
- Make sure the water level is mid point on the skimmer. Too low of water level could cause the skimmer to suck in air and cause the pump to make noise.
- Make sure all your equipment control valves are set properly.
Back to Top
- Make sure the pump basket is free of debris.
- You will have a valve on the pipe coming out of the top of the pump. Many times if this is left wide open, there is not enough back pressure on the pump and it will cause it to cavitate and make noise. Slowly turn the valve toward the off position until the pump quiets down. DO NOT turn the valve off all the way, as this will cause the pump to be "deadheaded" and could cause considerable damage to the pump.
- If the problem persists, please contact us for service.
Back to Top
- Most of the time the filter is in need of cleaning. If you have a sand filter, then you need to backwash the filter until the water coming out of the back wash hose has become clear. If you have a DE filter then the same is done as a sand filter, but you must reload the filter with DE. If you have a cartridge filter, and then you need to remove the cartridges, use a high-pressure hose with type of cartridge cleaner and wash the cartridges clean.
- There is a possibility that it could be a faulty gauge. Turn the equipment off and watch and see if the gauge falls to zero. If it does not, then you probably just need a new gauge in which you could pick up at any Pool Supply Store.
- Make sure all your valves are set correctly.
- If the problem persists, please contact us for service.
Back to Top
- Check all baskets for debris. This could restrict the flow and cause the pressure to drop.
- Check the gauge while the pump is running and then shut off the pump. If the gauge does not fall to zero, the gauge more than likely needs to be replaced.
- Check all the valves and make sure they are set properly. You could be directing the water to several different areas, which could drop the pressure considerably.
- If the problem persists, please contact us for service.
Back to Top
- It is recommended that you backwash 1x (more in the summer and less in the winter) times per month. This will not only keep your filter clean but will help keep down the calcium hardness from building up in the water. If the calcium hardness level gets over the recommended levels, it could cause staining on the interior surface and is not covered under the warranty. If you see your calcium levels rising, backwash more often. This is the only way to reduce the calcium levels in the swimming pool.
- Backwash for 2-3 minutes per backwash. If you only have a spa or a very small swimming pool, you may not be able to backwash as much at a time. You can also watch the water coming out of the backwash line. Once it becomes clear, that is the indication that your filter is clean. This could happen as quickly as 30 seconds to a minute. Again, remember to watch your calcium hardness levels. This might determine that you need to backwash longer even though the filter is clean.
Back to Top
- Cartridge filters do not have a backwash valve. BMR does provide a valve at the bottom of the filter so you can still have the opportunity to take water out of the swimming pool when the need arises (see question above).
